Mallorca’s new regional cuisine
Andreu Genestra, “Andreu Genestra★”, Capdepera
Innovation from ‘Noah’s Garden’
Aged just 35, Andreu Genestra already owns three restaurants in Mallorca. The flagship site that bears his name is located on the quiet side of the holiday island, far from the crowds of Palma, in the Hotel Son Jaumell, which itself is located on a seventeenth century estate.
Right next door are Genestra’s own vegetable garden, a newly planted olive grove and a vineyard with indigenous grape varieties. The garden is home to an astonishingly diverse range of native plants as well. Part of the garden is dedicated to Genestra’s passion: the preservation of Mallorca’s threatened plant species. This Noah’s Ark of a garden functions as a local seed bank. Needless to say, everything is organic and recycled.
Produce is picked at peak freshness by Genestra’s mostly Mallorcan team. Everything the chef does is aimed at reflecting a local culture that tourism threatens to destroy. But when it comes to his cooking, tradition takes a back seat. Despite being produce-focused, Genestra’s dishes reflect his time spent in the kitchens of the Spanish avant-garde at Arzak, Mugaritz and El Bulli. Prawns are served with cactus fig broth and avocado hummus. Piglet from an indigenous black-skinned breed comes with ensaïmada, seasoned ash and tap de corti, the local pepper that flavours the sobrasada sausage.