Borscht flows through his veins – The new Russian avant-garde

Vladimir Mukhin
White Rabbit, No. 23 / 50 Best 2017
Moscow, Russia

After Anatoly Komm’s Varvary briefly landed on the list in 2011, the White Rabbit in Moscow is the second restaurant to make it onto the list of the best 50 restaurants. Rightly, because what is made there, has world class level and is typically Russian and unique. Its concept of traditional Russian cuisine using Russian products is sure to please guests and critics alike. Borscht and Cossack’s blood flow through his veins, as he himself says. His love of Russian produce is clear to see. Mukhin embodies the new Russian chef. Open minded, well trained and researching every modern cooking technology. Mukhin belongs to the fifth generation of a cooking dynasty. At 12 years old, he toiled away in the kitchen under the watchful eye of his father. Later on, he joined the ranks of the highly respected Alexander Filin in the Red Square restaurant. He went on to open a few restaurants here and there, popped up in a few places in France and trained in Spain – among others at El Cellar de Can Roca. Since 2012, he has been the chef at the White Rabbit. And as the name suggests, it truly is a wonderland. Under a glass dome, high above the Smolensky shopping arcade, playful Russian splendour reigns. Where guests settle down on plush sofas in front of the Moscow skyline, or sit on low, plump upholstered poufs at the gastro bar. The white rabbit theme (from Alice in Wonderland) is featured throughout the restaurant’s accessories. And, of course, in line with the New Russian cuisine, you can find borscht on its menu as well.